Tonal studies

After reflection whether to draw some more on exercise 1 or to proceed to exercise 2, I decided for the latter. Although I found my drawings for exercise 1 not really convincing, I thought I had understood what to look out for, and that by varying the type of practice I’d prevent becoming bored.

Reminder on hatching techniques

This exercise firstly suggests to check whether one needs a reminder on hatching techniques, and I think in fact I need one. Looking for some additional technical information, a Google search directed me to the Wikipedia entry for Hatching (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatching). Basically, hatching is “an artistic technique to create tonal or shading effects by drawing […] closely spaced parallel lines. When lines are placed at an angle to one another, it is called cross-hatching.” (see the post Drawing skills: Hatching for more)

So for a start, I will practice some hatching techniques. The first part of this exercise looks good for this: Trying to make 4 different tones by varying the hatching, using 4 different tools.

Pages 1 to 4: Practice Hatching

I made 4 pages with hatching experiments in 4 different drawing tools: pencil, black biro, fineliner and dip pen with black ink. The initial attempts were rather arbitrary, but then I developed a more systematic approach of using parallel lines in four different angles, applied in layers of cross-hatching. I also tried out a “freestyle” hatching, where the tone was drawn by making 1 to 4 layers of parallel lines, but the angles of each layer varied freely.

I found it difficult to develop an approach that resulted in predictable tones. Especially with pencil, this required to control not only line density and angle, but also the pressure because otherwise the tone of the line would interfere with the desired tone from cross-hatching. For example, 2 layers of dark lines would approximate 4 layers of lighter lines in overall tonality. I learned that again pencil hatching makes it easier to create subtle shadings, whereas the “pure black” drawing tools which do not vary in tone require systematic control over the number of cross-hatched layers.

After having tried out so many hatching variations, I felt more comfortable with the technique and approached the tonal study of four objects

 

Page 5: Tonal study of four objects

I’m finding it very difficult to decide on objects to draw – they should have a simple form, and for the tonal study, I was looking for non-reflective surfaces because I thought this would help to see the tones more clearly. I finally decided on fruit: An orange, and apple and two kiwi. I arranged them with a light source at their side, because this seemed to bring out light and shadows very well.

I was tempted to draw the study with a fineliner, but did not feel confident enough to get the objects’ shapes well enough for a non-erasable drawing tool, therefore chose pencil. Drawing the shapes then went surprisingly well, maybe some unconscious learning processes have taken place since the last attempts.

I found it difficult to follow the instruction that “tonal shadow patterns follow the object” because with cross hatching, I would apply more than one angle of lines, and most of the angles wouldn’t be following the form of the object. I nevertheless tried to draw them as if I was following the objects shape.

It’s the first time that I applied a hatching technique in this way. My marks are not very subtle and I think in future drawings I might improve if I take more time. But overall, I like the drawing and find the tones worked out surprisingly well, especially in the areas of shade. There were the darker areas of the objects, but they still had to be lighter than the cast shadow on the table surface, and I think I have drawn this correctly.

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Drawing Skills: Hatching

Looking for some additional technical information on hatching as a drawing technique, a Google search directed me to the Wikipedia entry for Hatching (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hatching). To summarize

  • “an artistic technique to create tonal or shading effects by drawing […] closely spaced parallel lines
  •  “when lines are placed at an angle to one another, it is called cross-hatching
  • “Hatching is especially important in essentially linear media, such as drawing, and many forms of printmaking, such as engraving..
  • “The main concept is that the quantity, thickness and spacing of the lines will affect the brightness of the overall image, and emphasize forms creating the illusion of volume.
  • “Hatching lines should always follow (i.e. wrap around) the form. By increasing quantity, thickness and closeness, a darker area will result
  • “An area of shading next to another area which has lines going in another direction is often used to create contrast
  • “Line work can be used to represent colours, typically by using the same type of hatch to represent particular tones. For example, red might be made up of lightly spaced lines, whereas green could be made of two layers of perpendicular dense lines

I learned that hatching was important as a technique for engravers, who had only lines to represent different shades of tone. I had seen some classical engravings which impressed me a lot, like those by German medieveal artist Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528). The left picture is called ‘Veronica’ and dates back to 1513, the right one is called ‘Praying Hands’ (Betende Hände), c. 1508 (Wikipedia, Dürer).

Durer_Veronica   Duerer_praying_hands

methart.com_hatching1 The most basic technique of hatching/cross hatching consists in drawing layers of parallel lines to create increasingly dark tones (Illustration by Methart.com)

methart.com_hatching-fig1

The basic technique is applied in drawings to create tonal shades, like here for a building detail (Lauren Foster) and an apple (About.com):

lauren-foster-hatching    about.com_apple-hatched

Hatching can also be used on black scratchboard (Examples by Tania Nault). This reverses the tonality effect: more lines create lighter areas. The scratchboard consists of a layer of black ink on white underground (Product information by Ampersandart.com). A similar effect would result by applying light-coloured pencil on dark paper. I like the effect and would like to try it out as well.

tanianault_linecrosshatch_tsb.thumbnail tanianault_linehatch_tsb

minimatisse_tut2A really nice and ingenious way to teach hatching was applied in an educational project: A group of children in the 4th grade created together a hatched version of a Tut-Ench-Amun photograph. Each child made up to three hatched drawings of sections fromt the enlarged photograph, and then the pieces were put together like a puzzle. (Mrs Hahn’s Art Education Blog) Love the idea.

 

 

When I did my first hatching experiments, I just tried out the most basic techniques. But looking at other artist, it becomes evident there is an enormous variety in the techniques and the type of media to which hatching can be applied. I’ll keep my eyes open!

 

Sources

Wikipedia, Albrecht Dürer: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/D%C3%BCrer

Methart.com, Cross-hatching for inkers: http://www.methart.com/tutorials/hatching.html

About.com, Using cross contours in hatching and shading: http://drawsketch.about.com/od/drawinglessonsandtips/ss/crosscontour_5.htm

Lauren Foster, Shading done with hatching: http://ltfoster.blogspot.com/2008/02/shading-done-with-hatching.html

Tania Nault, Scratchboard: http://www.tanianault.ca/thescratchboard/2008/02/12/scratchboard-art-getting-started/

Ampersandart, Scratchboard product information: http://www.ampersandart.com/scratchbord.html

Mrs Hahn’s Art Education Blog:  http://minimatisse.blogspot.com/2011/04/hatching-and-cross-hatching-king-tut.html

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Observing shadow and light formations on a surface

This exercise was to take two simple objects, have them lit from the side and draw them using pencil. Beginning with a quick outline, then adding light and shade, then drawing all gradations of light and shadow that can be seen on the objects. Also including tonal gradations from light reflected from one surface to the other.

Page 1: White objects: plant pot and watering can

I chose white objects because I thought that I would be best able to see light and shadow for a start if not distracted by colours. The can turned out to be quite complicated to draw, I’ll choose a simpler object for the next try.

When drawing, I wasn’t able to leave out the steps of finding the positioning of the object on the paper, so although the instruction was to draw some quick sketches of the objects, I needed some time to draw my objects at all, used searching lines until I could define them more clearly on the sheet.

I chose an A3 sketchbook and found it a bit too small – requiring me to scale the objects down, in addition to the actual task of focusing on light and shadow. It also took me some time to work out the composition, I checked several positions for the lamp and orientations of the objects until it “felt right” – the arrangement and also the lights and shadows I saw.

When looking at the drawing, I think the objects are slightly distorted. I think this was a consequence of my drawing position, with the sketchbook flat on the desk and myself a bit bent backwards – although I was comfortably sitting, it resulted in myself looking at a flatter angle onto the sheet. The drawing looks less distorted when regarded in seating position. So it would be important for the future to maintain a drawing position which is more similar to the typical viewer position. I think this will help to get the proportions better.

 

I realized that during the course of the drawing, I became aware of more and more differences in tone, which I had not seen at the beginning, and which I subsequently integrated in the drawing. This drawing is only a light sketch, I’d like to do some more tries with different objects. But I wouldn’t have thought how difficult it is to choose “simple objects”.

Page 2: clay objects – two plant pots

For a second try, I selected two non-white objects because I liked their non-reflective surfaces, I thought they would also help to observe tonal shades from light to dark. I tried to remain upright while drawing to have less distortions, I think it helped. It would probably be better to have a drawing board which can be set at an angle, or use the easel. But for now, I wanted to remain with the arrangement on my drawing table.

I found it a bit easier to get the shapes right than with the first drawing, but my tones don’t seem to go well with the darkness of the lines. The tonal areas are correct in principle, but some lines and dark areas are too dark and seem to create “holes” in the drawing. It’s probably due to my attempt of emphasizing contrast on some details, this makes the drawing less coherent.

It’s as if line and hatching were in concurrence with each other, and in fact I’m doing a line drawing first, then adding tonality and the way I’m doing it doesn’t go very well together. Drawing tones for me is rather a painting technique, and the lines I draw have an artificial character in the drawing.

Maybe I should separate the two techniques, and get more practice with both separately: Line drawings and tonal studies? Another idea would be to study other artists’ drawings to see how they combined line and tone into something coherent.

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Check and log: Basic shapes and fundamental form

Are the objects in your drawings the correct size and shape in relation to each other?

I found it difficult to get the angles of the rectangular shapes of the books and boxes correct, and I had some difficulties with the elliptic shapes of cylindrical objects though, I think there are some distortions in my drawing. But overall,  I think the objects are roughly correct in size and shape, also in their relation to each other.

Do the shapes between the objects look correct?

Yes, I think so.

Do the objects in your drawings look solid?

For me, they do look solid. I had some problems with the cylindrical objects (jars and jugs) – initially I tended to draw “paper objects”, because my lines did not take material thickness into account. This improved over the 4 drawings I made.

Have you managed to create the feeling of depth in your drawings?

Yes, I think that there is depth in my drawings. This comes mainly through positioning of objects in front of each other, so the overlapping shapes create a depth illusion.

Reflections on this project

I think I have made some progress regarding the confidence to draw lines. Initially, I had no orientation on the paper sheet and did not know where the reference point for the objects’ angles was. This improved as I employed a technique of “imaginary baseline”.

As I learned later when I drew 3 tiny objects to prepare the Supermarket Shop drawing, my problem was related to using an easel and having the object to my side, rather than right in front of me. The imaginary baseline helped by mimicking the situation of objects in front of me.

I found drawing the jugs and jars easier than the books and boxes – arranging the objects with distance to each other and having a bit of flat ground as space between them made it easier to get the spaces and shapes correct. It took me quite a while to decide on each arrangement, but this effort seemed to have been worthwhile because I like the composition of the resulting drawings.

I also enjoyed the final exercise which added colour, although I would certainly avoid for the future to draw the details of illustrated packages. For future still life drawings, I’d prefer to select objects with a raw material as their surface, rather than printed packages, or I would abstract from these illustration details in favour of just drawing coloured shapes.

I think it was a good idea to try out some colour drawing materials before actually approaching the Supermarket Shop drawing, because I became surer about the decision which tools to select. For me, some mark-making exercises with a new tool or new technique seem to be really helpful as preparation.

Overall, I realized that I will need much practice, but I’m happy with my drawings so far and look forward to continue.

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Supermarket shop

The task was to use about six objects from a supermarket shopping list to create a still life group, and draw the group using some colour.

The task description caused immediate confusion by asking me to not forget “to compare one thing with another” and I couldn’t imagine what was meant my this. I ended up ignoring it.

I started with selecting some objects. I tried to chose both cubic and cylindrical forms with varying sizes:
–    A wine bottle
–    Coffee packed in a box
–    Tuna can
–    Coconut cream box
–    Cylindrical tea box
–    small cubic tea box

I also looked a bit for the colours to make them somewhat harmonious – the items are coloured in various brown tones up to yellow/ocre, with occasional spots of other colours, for example the metal of the tuna can and some blue spots on the label. Since I felt unsure about how I might colour my drawing, I began with some preliminary experiments to explore coloured media.

Page 1: Conte crayon mark making experiment (A3 sketchbook)

I thought to use conté crayons to colour the drawing, and did a mark-making exercise first to explore colours and behaviour of the pastel blocks. I’m new to pastel and didn’t feel very comfortable with them. I don’t really like how they behave when applied in layers, they tend to smudge easily, the crayons take up the colour which is already on the paper and diffuse particles to other places on the paper. So drawing spontaneously with light and dark colours easily spoils the colours already there.

When I bought the box of carrés, I hadn’t noticed that it wasn’t the general assortment, but the landscape selection of colours, which doesn’t contain clear yellow, red and blue tones. There’s an emphasis on “natural” tones, with many different shades of green and brown. I’m not very happy with the selection, because they push the drawings into the direction of a particular palette which I wouldn’t have chosen for my mark-making exercise nor for drawing the arrangement of supermarket items. On the other hand, I’m not very much into pastels currently, so I’d rather not buy a second box to have the general selection right now.

Overall, I will have a look whether I have some other colours for the supermarket drawing, something different from pastel. Ideas are
–    wax or oil pastel: is very rough, not fine
–    coloured crayons: are very light in colour
–    watercolour: would require to work flat, and to take heavy paper
–    coloured ink: preferably for small sheets of paper if applied with dip pen. I might be using it afterwards (on top of a b/w drawing) with a brush, then take heavy paper right away
–    wax pastels with water: Another idea would be to make a pencil drawing first, then draw the contours with black ink (waterproof) and apply wax pastels for colour, then diffuse them with water to create blendings.

The last idea interested me most, but I would need to try out the technique first – another mark making experiment.

Page 2: Wax pastel mark making experiment (A3 clean white sheet)

initial ideas:
–    take rather heavy paper which can support water.
–    working in layers: Pencil drawing first, then wax pastel, then water. I took a HB pen – the hardest I have – hoping that it smudges less with water than 2B
–    try out the effect of making contours with black ink and dip pen

I took medium weight paper (190g) in clean white, smooth surface which works better with dip pen and ink. I drew 4 squares on the A3 sheet because I thought to make some experiments to explore this mixed-media technique.

Square I – drawing some objects, colorizing them (upper left)

For a beginning, I chose three small objects to mimick the supermarket topic – two ink boxes (cubic), and a pencil sharpener (cylindric). I had the sketchblock flat in front of me and placed the objects bedirectly behind it. Contrasting to the first two exercises with large objects which I had put onto a table to my left, this improvised arrangement was much easier to draw, because the horizontal baseline which I had difficulties finding in the earlier drawings, was now much easier to locate – I could simply take my own position as a reference point, such that the position of the sketchblock became the horizontal line against which to locate the objects’ angles.

I did a pencil sketch first and had much less difficultiy outlining the objects – firstly due to the easily available horizontal reference line, but also because drawing flat permitted the arm to rest, my hand was much more safe and supported during drawing. Very nice for a change. I then drew the objects’ contours with dip pen and ink, and after the ink was dried, I applied some colour with the wax crayons. I did not want to draw too many details, but still take up the main colours of the objects. This was easy for the sharpener with its red body and black top, but less easy for the ink boxes, which had printed upon the surface a merchand’s label and some information about the product, plus a tiny illustration based on the ink’s colour. So I got back to pen and ink, but used a finer nib for an abstract representation of characters and text, and made some coloured patches roughly in the form of the illustrated objects on the box. Next, I dissolved these colours with a brush and water. Taking a rather short and hard brush was a good decision because it permitted some control over the process. I dissolved some coloured areas completely, but let others irregularly textured from the original wax crayon marks. The effect was a greater resemblance to the original illustration. So this was the first try, the technique seems to work, and I’m not sure what to do with the other three squares. I might simply try out some abstract shapes, colour blendings etc.

For my supermarket topic though, using watercolour would lead to an interruption in the drawing process – I’d first make the drawing of what I see, using the easel and upright drawing board, and then change to another desk where I can lay down flat the sheet and beautify (or not) the whole drawing by applying some water to the coloured areas. I’m not especially fond of the idea, because it feels somewhat artificial. I’d rather stay where I begin, and with a single drawing technique. Will think about this.

Squares II and III – mark-making in black and red (lower 2 squares)

I wanted to try out the washing technique and used watersoluble wax pastel. I drew a pattern of angles in black, with some shades of colour, and then used brush and water to dissolve the colour. I wanted the forms to overlap, and to obtain two different effects: soft blendings from darker to lighter, and contrasts of the dark edges ranging into lighter areas. This technique didn’t work very well, because the water tended to dissolve everything. But probably less than if I had been drawing with watercolour wet-in-wet. In my drawing, the angle shapes still remained defined, with an effect of transparent layers.

The third square was a wave pattern in red. I wanted to try out shades and create highs and depths. The pattern is nice, but there’s not much depth effect, probably due to the colour and to my lack of knowledge how to create depth effects.

After square II had dried a bit, I did another layer of angles, this time in red colour. I wanted to strengthen the transparent layer effect, but this turned out to be difficult, because as soon as I applied some more water, the black forms tended to dissolve, too. For this technique to work, one would have to apply an intermediate fixative layer, to prevent the first layer from bleeding into the second. This wouldn’t have occurred with ink, which dries water resistant – as far as I know. But not sure whether this still holds once the ink has been diluted with some water. A nice idea to try out though.

IV – ink and wax colour (upper right square)

I began with ink and made some brush strokes which resembled a pattern of hills in a landscape, then diluted the ink with water and made some more strokes. The ink dried very quickly and separate layers created different shades of darkness, rather than dissolving. On top of the ink layer, I applied blue and grean wax colour, which I then dissolved with water. As anticipated, this did not dissolve the black ink marks, and permitted to create blends of blue and grean colour. A limitation was the paper which was not good for watercolour drawings, the surface became rough very quickly.

learning point/practical point: When using this technique, use more robust paper which supports some brush work.

Page 3: Supermarket Shop

I drew my arrangement and decided on colour crayons. I felt slightly more confident getting the shapes right – after having spent half an hour or so to arrange the objects in a way that would be appropriate for a portrait format, and which resulted in nice between-spaces, angles, and shapes to draw. The initial HB pencil drawing was done like before, beginning with very light sketching searching lines, then gradually becoming more defined until I could draw the contour lines. Once I had these, I continued with the colour pencils and tried to get the general colour right, but did not attempt to obtain real deep tonality, instead remained rather light.

The one thing I did not like was to draw the labels on my items. I liked them for their shape and what I new was inside, but I felt silly to re-draw the illustrations on their cover. Probably I would be happier with more natural surfaces, consting of real materials like glass, metal or clay, rather than copying printed stuff.

I think I did quite well with this drawing – I could have done better at everything but for the first attempt since a long time, I was satisfied. I like working in colour, and I think I got the tones quite well. In the end, I think I’ve overdone a bit, I emphasized contrasts and added object shades, and also lightly coloured the wooden table surface but here I think I haven’t done a good job. Regarded from close this is nice, but from a distance of a meter, the objects cannot be very well distinguished from another, probably because of not enough contrast at overlapping shapes, and because I remained so lightly with the colours. Also, using colours with lamp light instead of daylight didn’t work very well. I have a daylight lamp, but only one, and it is attached to my desk. Probably I will buy a standing lamp and another daylight bulb, and move the lamp around to where I’m working. Especially in the winter with the short daylight hours this will be valuable.

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Jars and jugs

The task was to select at least six cylindrical objects, and arrange them in a way that I could look slightly down on them. Then with a soft pencil, draw what I see without rubbing out mistakes, as an indicator of where difficulties are. Then make a second drawing from a slightly different angle and after gaining some confidence, a third with a pencil that cannot be rubbed out.

I made four drawings overall, and did an additional experiment by using the second drawing as a starting point for a “sand picture” – glueing coloured sand with painting filler.

Pages 1 and 2 – jugs and jars

I made two drawings from different arrangements of objects and again, found the task very difficult, and my drawings not very successful. I think I’m not a “line person”. I approached each drawing with very light, searching lines and then gradually became more clear about the shapes and positions of my object. I think I’m more a painter than a drawing person, my drawings are like modelling objects out of the grey muddle of lines, rather than knowing where the contours are and confidently drawing them. I did find some contours in the end, but had the feeling of imposing errors which wouldn’t have been that visible without the contours.

Very obvious that I need much practice, but it’s also a challenge that I appreciate.

What would help me to improve?
–    First of all, practice
–    I need to take a closer look at the points where lines run together, because I tended to draw lines that created “paper objects” without thickness of the material they were made of. The lines of the contours do not meet the lines of inner shapes, but I’m very unsure how to draw this
–    I might try to draw more detail – not shade, but details of the objects, this would improve the credibility of the drawing

What went well?
–    especially the first drawing, I found that it was drawn with much sensitivity. In the second, I was a bit exhausted. Maybe I should really stop after one drawing. I had a similar feeling after the second drawing of the books and boxes, as if I had been wasting my time. But I don’t know. In both cases, the idea of doing it again didn’t feel that good. It might really be better to do something else after each drawing and try again on the next day. I’ll try this out, to see what works better.

But when I looked at the two drawings 2 hours later that evening, my impression had changed and I liked them a lot, for the sensitivity and calmness they breathed, and also I found the composition of my objects very good. I will need more practice, but probably just accept my personal style of searching lines. Don’t know how to tackle the task with a non-erasable pen though – I didn’t rub out my lines but my style worked well with pencil where I could begin very soft and light and once I was more sure about where to locate the objects, then become darker and more defined with the lines. With black felt pen for example, this technique won’t work at all. Maybe working on the same arrangement will make the task a bit easier  – based on the knowledge of objects I’ve gained through the earlier pencil drawing.

The sand picture

I made an extracurricular art work – a sand picture, using painter’s filler as glue for areas of sand in different colours, on thick bookmaker’s carton. I used the composition of the last drawing as a starting point. The picture is a bit chaotic, as I’m only beginning with the technique (first try), and I’m unsure whether the filler will hold the sand. I might need a finish to protect the sand from falling off. I might also try real glue next time, something that can be more easily applied with a pencil. I did it with a spoon and a thick painter’s brush, this didn’t support work on fine details very well.

When I checked again this morning, the sand did not hold very well and after consultation at my art materials supplier this morning, I bought transparent acrylic varnish to protect the work. I applied it with a soft brush and the small bottle was just enough for the 35×50 cm card size. I did it with stippling movements, because brushing movements dissolved too much sand. The customer service agent also recommended to use acrylic binding, colour or filler as glue material for the sand, which I will try out next – I wasn’t too happy with the filler because it dried too quickly when applied thin, and applied thickly the mass resulted in a wavy underground like sand under water which I didn’t like very much. I bought transparent binder and black acrylic paint – this might be a nice effect with dark grey, light grey and light blue sand that I’m using. Overall, an interesting experience. I like experimenting with new materials.


Pages 3 and 4 – more jugs and jars

I wanted to do one or two more to follow the instruction of using a pencil that cannot be rubbed out. I decided to use black felt pen, re-arranged the jars again, and started with a pencil drawing. I wanted to first get acquainted with the arrangement, before trying to draw lines with felt pen.

I feel that my third drawing of jars and jugs as again slightly improved, I found better solutions to draw material objects (rather than paper objects) – the problem was mainly at the points where lines met, and I began to draw inner and outer lines to indicate thickness of the object’s material. Also I felt more confident that the technique of beginning with light lines and gradually become more definitive would lead me to “correct” lines. The drawing isn’t constructed in perspective, rather done on intuitive measurement of shapes. There are errors but overall I like the drawing.

I decided not to draw with felt pen in the same drawing, but begin a second one and when I knew where my objects were on the paper by sketching them with pencil, then I would go ahead and use felt pen on top. That’s what I did, but I don’t know whether I like the resulting image. When using felt pen, I wasn’t looking at the arrangement anymore, instead tried a best guess about the correct line position and applied knowledge about the thickness of objects to draw inner and outer contours. Maybe it would be better to start with felt pen right away, to maintain the necessity to keep looking at what I’m drawing.

I feel totally unsure about drawing and somehow this is reflected in the drawings – even the felt pen lines are short and searching, rather than confident and bold. Maybe it’s personal style, maybe it gets better with practice.

Overall, an important exercise – difficult even to get simple shapes right, and showed me how afraid I am to draw lines.

  

 

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Boxes and books

The task was to arrange at least six boxes and books of different sizes,  placing them close together or even on top of each other, and then use only line to describe the rectangular surfaces.

I made four drawings of slightly different arrangements and exchanging some objects to add some variety.

First page

I began with some difficulties of arranging the items… trying like this, trying something else, different heigths. Not liking the items on the floor, but putting them on the table is too high. Changing the angles constantly to arrive at an interesting arrangement. Being annoyed by the easel which isn’t very stable, adding some blocks between the wooden board where I put the paper on and the easel to get it more stable. I own this easel since at least 20 years, but have used it only once or twice at that time. So these are really first-time problems – everything is new, and I don’t really know how to get started.

Then beginning to look and experiencing crumbling confidence, the task suddenly appears so complex, all these shapes of the books and boxes and I don’t know how to get the angles right, don’t know how to interpret what I’m seeing, feeling very insecure about it all. Then taking a heart and making the first try.

I used a graphite block rather than a pencil because I did not want to be interrupted by sharpening a pencil in between. I took A2 loose sheet of paper because I have no sketchblock of that size. I tried an A3 sketchbook but found it too small, did not want to be obliged to scale down the items, in addition to trying to get the shapes right.

I began with light lines and the book at the bottom, then worked my way upwards. Made plenty of errors, difficulties to orient myself between what I look at and how I translate it into two dimensions.

The recommendation of drawing the boxes as if they were transparent was difficult to follow because I could only guess where they were. Some long forgotten knowledge about perspective came up – I analysed what I saw and knew that the lines on the sheet were violating perspective laws, but was torn between sticking to what I saw (even if “wrong”) and applying perspective laws and getting things right. I still am…

I worked my way up to the top box (matchbox), trying to correct errors as I saw them. The many lines make the drawing somewhat underdefined and searching, but towards the end I became a little bit more confident, as can be seen in a clearer trait applied with more pressure for the second upper box.

I think I will do some more of this exercise, changing angles and arrangement, trying out different heights, to get some practice. While I like the large format, I’m not used to keeping my right arm in the air for drawing, and the inflammation in my shoulder will prevent me from continuing with this technique. I will have to try out something different, maybe a drawing board which is flatter and permits the arm to rest a bit.

Page 2

I changed the arrangement a bit, but only the angles, not the height. I felt a little bit more confident. It helped me to apply an imaginary horizontal baseline on the arrangement to measure visually the angles and translate them against the horizontal bottom of the paper sheet. I felt that this improved my orientation on the paper, compared to the first try. Even though I don’t see much improvement from first to second try, it felt better.

I also made tiny pauses for my arm instead having in in the air all the time. This was better and less exhausting for the muscles. I was still struggling with knowledge about perspective and simply drawing wat I saw. I would have no problem constructing a technical perspective drawing, but I prefer to train my eye to interpret the angles correctly, rather than constructing them technically.

I made photographs of both arrangements, maybe this will help to analyse the errors that I make. From the drawing, it’s the backwards lines which are rather undefined and where I’m insecure.

Maybe I should change some of my items to have them more differently in thickness – there are too many of roughly the same thickness and some too similar in size. I think more difference would help me to improve.

Page 3

I did another try of the arrangement, this time with graphite pen 9B and in the living room where I could place the books and boxes on a flat table rather than improvising a stand (as I had done for pages 1 and 2). I exchanged the box for a thick book to have more variety in the forms.

I remembered about my idea about the horizontal line in the picture and searched for an imaginary baseline. I tried to relate the angles of the shapes to this baseline as I saw them, but I think in the drawing there is a tendency of my items to “fall of the plane”. I’m currently not able to analyse where the error is. Otherwise, I feel that I gained a bit more confidence to draw a defining, darker line, rather than many searching light lines.

Page 4

Another go for books and boxes. This time, I placed the arrangement farther away from me and exchanged some books for boxes of different size. One box was square which turned out to be especially difficult to get right, because the eye immediately detects perspective errors – with the hand not being able to correct them, for the time being. In this drawing I made more corrections on the size of shapes than in the other ones.

Summary

Overall, I found this exercise rather difficult – showing me that “I cannot draw” – not yet, and not in a technical sense of getting things objectively correct. But from drawing 1 to 4 I nevertheless perceived some tiny progress in the ability to draw lines to define form. I guess I need much more practice.

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Research point: Eric Ravilious

Eric Ravilous, Vase of Flowers in a garden

Eric Ravilious (1903-1942) was an English painter, designer, book illustrator and wood engraver. He became an official war artist in World War II and was killed while accompanying a Royal Air Force air sea rescue mission. He became one of the best known artists in the 1930s. He was married and had three children.

source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eric_Ravilious

Neither in my Google internet search, nor in Oxford Art Online did I find information about Ravilious’ drawing techniques, but I found many beautiful pictures, mostly watercolour drawings and woodprints. I was impressed by the variety of textures and the amount of fine detail in these pictures.

I couldn’t imagine myself doing anything similar in style, but am full of respect for the beauty and finesse of Ravilious’ works.

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Check and log: Making marks

Check and log

How did holding your pen or pencil in a different way affect your drawing?

Different hand helds were helpful for inventing new types of marks, and in exploring the possibilities of each drawing medium.

A typical effect was less control over the effect of the marks I made. In some cases, the marks became rather erratic and zig-zag like, in other cases, they became very soft and conveyed the fluency of movements.

It was also interesting to make marks with the left hand – more difficult, but getting over habitual mark-making by the conscious effort required to control the left hand (for me as a right handed person) created novel effects.

Which drawing tools suited the different mark-making techniques you used?

Drawing with pen and ink was best suited to making clearly defined lines with rather slow and controlled movements. It worked less well when movements were fast and expressive, because the ink ran out quickly, producing greyed, stained lines.

Charcoal was very nice to make deep black marks and strong contrasts, also for subtle shadings. With its tendency to produce irregularly shaped marks and to smudge, it was less well suited for making clearly defined, precise marks and “clean” effects.

I found Pencil (and other graphite-based tools) very versatile for fine-graded, subtle shadings and fine lines, but less well for deep contrasts because the darkest tones are rather grey than black, even with soft graphite. Pencil was also very good for hatching techniques because it permits fast movements without interruptions from running out of pigment (in contrast to dip pen).

Felt pen and fineliner were good for clean, uniterrupted line-based marks, but less well suited for covering entire areas with colour, or for shadings. They dry out quickly on rough paper, so I’d rather use them on very smooth paper.

The pastel tools (soft / oil / wax) were very good for shadings of tone, from very light to very intense. They would certainly be well suited for creating fine blendings of colour. They are less well adapted to draw precisely defined marks, especially not on small drawing areas. It was also easy to create tonality and depth effects simply by varying the pressure when drawing.

The unusual drawing tools were very good for creating novel and surprisiing marks when used with ink.

Did you find that any marks or tools you used matched particular emotions or feelings? Did one convey calm and another frenzy for example?

I felt calmed down almost always when I used ink-based tools, because it required rather slow and controlled movements to make the lines. By contrast, when using charcoal, I regularly got carried away into an almost subconscious mode of drawing, fast and expressive.

I see these feelings reflected in the sketchbook pages where the charcoal drawing became quite dramatic, although even my pen and ink marks tended to become expressive and hasty, rather than straight and orderly.

How did the introduction of colour (soft pastels, Conte crayons) affect your markmaking?

At this point, I didn’t feel like exploring colour effects, and mostly produced monochrome marks in a single different colour, like brown or blue. In the few cases where I used more than one colour (some felt pen and coloured pencil attempts), the type of mark I made became less important and my attention was caught by colour blending effects.

Which of these experiments have you found most interesting and rewarding?

At the beginning, the task to take a large piece of paper and make marks by large gestural strokes had a liberating effect and resulted in abandoning the A4 sketchbook in favour of the A2 sketchbook.

I very much enjoyed drawing with charcoal, because I like the strong contrasts it can produce and its tendency to direct my attention away from fine-grained detail towards shape and tonality. I also like the irregularity of marks it makes.

Also, I found experimenting with unusual drawing tools very rewarding and mind-opening because of the new and unexpected marks that resulted.

Personal reflections on this project

For me this project was about making a start into the course and finding my personal approach to the tasks.
The exercises encouraged me to explore a variety of different media and mark-making techniques in a more conscious way by deliberately doing things differently.

I feel that I have made a nice step forward by overcoming an initially distant attitude to drawing, now feeling engaged and more confident. I started with small movements and tiny marks in an A4 sketchbook, and developed momentum and energy to make larger, expressive marks, covering an A2 sheet with ease.

I especially enjoyed drawing with charcoal and am looking forward to get on with this medium. I would also like to devote some time to explore soft pastel, which is a completely new drawing tool for me. Some more mark-making work with colours would also be good.

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Trying new media

I enjoyed searching for new drawing tools, because it made me look in a novel way at my household items – not interested in their usual function, but whether they could be used as a drawing tool. I selected what I had from those suggested (wooden stick, bamboo stick) and some more out of curiosity how their marks would look like (sunflower, piece of clay pot, chestnut, metal paper clip, door key, and plastic spoon)

Using these tools with ink was very inspiring because the marks were surprising and new. Using unusual tools in more deliberate ways to achieve a desired effect certainly requires more practice, but this technique is a great way for creating novel types of marks.

I then made marks with soft pastel, oil pastel and wax pastel. It was the first time ever that I used soft pastel and felt a somewhat intimidated. I definitely need some more time to explore this medium. I was more at ease with oil and wax pastel.

I learnt that pastels are very good for creating subtle shades of gray from light to deep black, and also permit to vary the darkness of a line, whereas ink typically produces clearly defined, uniform lines which create a strong black-and-white contrast.

 

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